Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Model & Hobby FAQs

1. What if I need replacment parts that are damaged or missing from my kit or have defective paint or other Testors items?

We are sorry to inform you that we are no longer able to send out replacement parts for our model kits, paint or other Testors items.

The new policy regarding replacement parts, replacement paint or defective items will require proof of purchase to be sent to our Product Support team along with a brief description of the issue with the item. Once received; a refund for the purchase price of the item in the form of a check will be processed and mailed to you. 

If you no longer have your original sales receipt, you may purchase another kit or Testors item and forward that sales receipt as proof of purchase to receive a full refund of the purchase price. 

You can send your receipt and a brief descrption of the issue along with your name & address to customerservice@testors.com or mail directly to:

Rust-Oleum
Attn: Testors Customer Service
11 Hawthorn Parkway
Vernon Hills, IL 60061


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. How do I return my airbrush or compressor for replacement per the warranty coverage?

NEW POLICY FOR AIRBRUSH & COMPRESSOR WARRANTIES

 

The new policy effective as of 2014 will require:

A scanned or mailed copy of your receipt for the Airbrush(s)/Compressor and a brief desciption of the issue with the item along with your name and address to be sent to the e-mail address customerservice@testors 

Please put "Airbrush Warranty" or "Compressor Warranty" on the subject line.

If you do not have access to the internet, you can mail the required information directly to:

Rust-Oleum Corp.
Attn: Product Support
Airbrush/Compressor Warranty
11 Hawthorn Parkway
Vernon Hills, IL 60061

 


 


 

3. What are the drying times for your paints?

MODEL MASTER ENAMEL PAINT:

Enamels require 48-72 hours for a full cure. To avoid possible wrinkling, recoat withing 3 hours or after 48 hours.

MODEL MASTER ACRYLIC: 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

MODEL MASTER AUTO LACQUER

Auto Lacquers will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.  Hold can 10" to 12: from work. Use full strokes. Spray 3 to 4 light mist coats. After 1 to 2 minutes dry, spray 2 to 3 even coats. Must be clear coated in 2 hours.

Model Master Metalizer

Please see FAQ 5 for full Model Master Metalizer instructions.

PACTRA RACING FINISH LACQUERS FOR LEXAN BODIES

Dry time is 5-10 minutes between coats.  Full cure is 24 hours

PACTRA RACING FINISH PAINTS LEXAN BODIES ACRYLIC 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

PACTRA R/C AIRCRAFT COLORS

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

FLOQUIL/POLLYSCALE ACRYLICS

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

FLOQUIL ENAMELS: 

Enamels require 48-72 hours for a full cure. To avoid possible wrinkling, recoat within 3 hours or after 48 hours.

TESTOR ENAMELS:

Enamels require 48-72 hours for a full cure.  To avoid possible wrinkling, recoat within 3 hours or after 48 hours.

NOTE:  Dry times may vary depending on humidity and environmental conditions.  You can check the humidity in your area at http://www.weather.gov/ and enter your zip code.

4. How do I remove paint from my model?

Acrylic Paint Removal

To remove dried acrylic film, you may use PollyScale Easy Lift Off Remover No. F542143.  Many modelers have found that this is an effective way of removing the acrylic paint without harming the polystyrene.  Apply the remover and leave it on the affected area until the paint starts to wrinkle.  Do not immerse.  Using a soft sponge or brush, rub the film under running warm water.  The film will rinse right off.  A repeat application of the ELO may be necessary depending on thickness of the acrylic applications.  However, if the acrylic surface has been sanded it will be much more difficult to remove the paint.  Please follow the precautions listed on the ELO product label.

Once completed, clean the area with a mild dish washing detergent and allow to air dry before you touch up the area with paint.  You can also wet sand areas that do not involve clear parts.  Simply apply moisture to the paper and gently rub.  Rinse out grit to keep the paper workable.

Enamel Paint Removal

To remove dried enamel film you may use PollyScale Easy Lift Off Remover No. F542143.  Please see instructions above under the Acrylic Removal section.

You may also use Easy-Off Oven Cleaner.  We recommend the Fragrance Free version of the product.  The procedure for removal is the same as the above one for PollyScale Easy Lift Off Remover or ELO.

5. How do I apply Metalizer Paints?

METALIZERS MUST BE APPLIED TO BARE PLASTIC!

 

Metalizer is a unique metalizing plate finish, especially formulated for all kinds of plastic models.  It is a high quality product manufactured with the finest materials available.

The Metalizer line consists of a wide range of buffing and non-buffing colors which allow you to duplicate any natural metal finish.  No other product offers the capability and versatility of Metalizer.

Metalizer is also easy to use.  All colors are pre-mixed for airbrushing. Simply apply to your clean, unpainted model according to the following directions, let dry for several minutes and then buff to a brilliant metal sheen with a clean, soft cloth.

In order to achieve optimum results, careful read the information found in the Special Hints & Suggestions below.

Special Hints & Suggestions:

1. Make sure the plastic part to be painted is dry and free of dust, lint, fingerprints, mold release compound and any other foreign matter.  Thin residual films of silicon, sometimes left on plastic parts as a result of the molding process, may be removed by cleaning with a small amount of rubbing alcohol or washing detergent and water.  If a detergent and water wash is used, the part should be water rinsed and dried completely.

2. Shake the bottle or spray can thoroughly prior to use.  Stir bottles occasionally if one color is being used for a prolonged period.  Recap tightly after use.

3. Metalizer products are recommended for all major kinds of airbrushes, both internal and external mix.  Set airbrush at a “medium” setting and fine tune airbrush and pressure to a personal preference and individual technique.  If thinning is desired use Metalizer Thinner No. 1419 only.  Model Master Airbrush Thinner is not recommended.

4. When using buffing colors, spray light mist coats and allow to dry for about 10 minutes.  Buff with facial tissue, cotton balls, or a soft cloth to desired sheen.  For best results, begin by buffing very lightly at first, gradually increasing pressure as the finish begins to “buff up” to the desired metal-plate look.

5. Non-buffing Metalizer colors also are “ready to use” airbrushing lacquers.  However buffing is not required or recommended.  The non-buffing colors represent a range of metallic shades and levels of sheen to allow for a variety of effects.

6. Metalizer buffing colors are compatible with all other buffing colors, just as the non-buffing colors may be mixed with each other to produce desired shades.  “Cross-mixing” of buffing and non-buffing colors is not recommended.

7. Due to the unique nature of Metalizer coatings, the use of standard-tack masking tape is not recommended.  Low-tack tape can be used successfully on non-buffing colors.  Here’s another way to mask.  To achieve a “dissimiliar” panel effect – as on aircraft models – cut newspaper into strips and soak in water.  Outline the area to be painted with wet strips.  Soak up all water droplets with a tissue, then lightly airbrush or spray paint the area.  Remove paper and soak up water drops.  Allow to dry then buff as usual.  Note: when using the “wet masking” technique, best results are achieved by spraying dark colors first.  Then, after placing the masking strips, airbrush the lighter colors.

8. Dry Metalizer finishes may be decaled as usual. Model Master Decal Set (No. 2146) is recommended as a compatible setting solution.

9. Seal all buffing and non-buffing colors with Metalizer Sealer (No. 1409 bottle or 1459 spray).  Clean your airbrush with Metalizer Thinner (No. 1419). Note – The Metalizer Sealer will protect the painted surface against fingerprints or minor abrasions but a slight decrease in metallic brilliance is normal.

10. Metalizer can be over painted with most hobby paint.  As always, you should first test for overcoat compatibility before applying to the finished model.

6. How do I remove Testor Cement from fabric?

Use a finger nail polish remover that contains acetone as one of the ingredients listed on the label, but we must caution you that it may also remove any dyes in the fabric of your. We suggest that you try dabbing a small amount of the remover on an area on the fabric that will not show, to test out first. Using a soft cloth, saturate the cemented area and the soft cloth with the polish remover. Dab or blot the area to absorb the cement into the soft cloth. Do not rub the area or it will grind the cement into the fibers of the fabric. Keep changing the soft cloth to a clean area so as not to smear the absorbed cement, until no more cement comes out.

7. What is the shelf-life of Testor Enamels?

The Testor Enamels have a shelf-life of 3-5 years if stored properly.

8. How do I remove your paint from fabric or carpet?

If you have a paint that has just spilled, Waterbase Acrylics will come up with water. Blot out with water and keep rinsing, followed by soapy water.

Acetone Nail Polish or Mineral spirits will work for enamels, however you will need to blot and not try to scrub out.

In both cases it is tough to get paint completely out when you have a porous substrate. Fabric can be even more difficult because certain types of fabric can react with the solvents like mineral spirits and can harm the fibers. It has been known to remove the dye from fabric or carpet.

Once the paint has started to dry, it becomes even more difficult to remove and the likely hood of getting all the paint removed is not probable.

Always test fabric with the solvent in an area that won't be seen in case it does discolor the fabric.

9. How do I achieve a transparent paint finish?

Mix 50% Enamel and 50 % Gloss or Flat Clear.

10. What are External Mix Airbrushes good for?

External Mix airbrushes such as the A220 are very good for spraying large quantities of paint, but do not easily lend themselves to small detail work. The A220 is an excellent tool for producing car bodies, large single-colored models, priming, etc. Whereas our external mix A270 (a little more complex/expensive) is quite capable of creating all but the most complex camouflage or what have you, and is still able to provide broad coverage as with the A220.

11. What is the difference between a Single Action and Double Action Airbrush?

Single Action: Air Supply is regulated via a simple on/off trigger. A separate roller, commonly located at the rear of the airbrush, adjusts paint supply generally. With the roller all the way to the right, the paint is released by just pressing down. This roller allows variable line widths to be selected, by slightly easing to the left. Be careful not to go to far to the left or you will find yourself in double-action.

 

This YouTube Video shows you how to use your Aztek Airbrush in Double Action

http://youtu.be/f9iocSTRe0I

Double Action: Pressing the trigger regulates the air supply. The further down the trigger is pressed, the more air is expelled. By pulling back on the same trigger, paint is introduced into the air stream. The further back one pulls, the more paint is injected. You may also adjust the flow pattern by slightly easing the roller, at the rear of the airbrush, to the right. You must do this carefully; if you continue all the way to the right, you will find yourself back in single action.

12. What are the differences between the various Internal Mix Airbrushes?

Internal Mix airbrushes such as the A320, A430 and A470 are all capable of using the same interchangeable nozzles, but the double-action controls of the A430 and A470 allow you to exploit the finer points of airbrushing.

13. What does a matte finish mean?

Matte is the finish of a surface with minimal reflectance.  A matte finish is the opposite of a gloss finish. 

13. Do you have any trouble shooting tips for the airbrushes?

 Air brush will not spray 

  • The nozzle is not in tight enough and air is leaking into the paint line. Use the cleaning wrench; tighten hand tight and another ¼ turn with the nozzle wrench. 
  • The needle tip is bent. Replace with a new nozzle.
  • The nozzle is clogged with dried paint. Remove and wash.
  • Is the paint thin enough?  Try cleaning out all passageways of the airbrush and paint cup and thin the paint to the consistency of whole milk.
  • Check the compressor power, are you getting enough compressed air?  If it's less than 18-20 psi, the airbrush may not spray even enamels properly.  If you don't know the pressure, you can add a regulator to gauge your pressure.
  • Check to see if the propellant or compressor has been turned on. Is air coming out of the nozzle when the trigger is depressed?
  • Pressure in your canister of propellant may have dropped, try placing your can in a bowl with room temperature water to maintain a constant pressure and keep the can from freezing up.
  • Check airline for kinks,
  • Check that there is a blanking plug in the unused port
  • Check for paint in paint cup
  • Remove Paint Cup and Blanking Plug and clean between ports.
  • Install new nozzle and thoroughly clean old one.

Air bubbles in paint jar

  • The nozzle is not in tight enough; air is leaking into the paint line.  Use the cleaning wrench to re-tighten the nozzle.
  • Paint buildup on the needle causes air to blow back into nozzle, clean the nozzle tip or replace (see cleaning instruction).
  • The needle tip is bent, cannot be fixed. Replace nozzle.

Intermittent spray

  •  Nozzle may not be tight enough, air is getting into the paint line and air is being sprayed. Re-tighten nozzle.
  • Build up on the needle is interrupting the spray (common with Acrylic paints).  Thin the paint, reduce the air pressure and re-clean the nozzles.
  • Nozzle may be damaged. Closely inspect it for bent needles and cracks (do not disassemble), try a new nozzle.

Paint spits in line

  •  Nozzle needs cleaning, re-clean nozzle and air cap. Paint may be building up on the side walls
  • Make sure that the paint and nozzle type match.
  • Check consistency of media, re-mix if necessary.  Poorly mixed or lumpy paint goes through an  airbrush at irregular speed.
  • Moisture may be coming from compressor; you may need a moisture trap.
  • Nozzles maybe damaged, replace if necessary.

 

Paint sprays continually

  • Roller is too far open, adjust roller setting to loosen trigger.
  • Nozzle needs cleaning, or it could be damaged.  Removing the needle & spring can stretch, this causes the nozzle not to shut out.
  • May have internal airbrush issues, will need to be returned to Testors for testing. 

 Spider spray Patten

  • Air pressure is too great for paint and nozzle, lower psi.
  • Paint is too thin for selected pressure and nozzle.
  • Wrong nozzle for paint and pressure setting, try another nozzle.
  • Airbrush is too close to the surface being sprayed.

Reverse Flow

  • The “Reverse Flow” or “Back Flow” method is common for most other brands of airbrushes, however it should not be used with any of the Aztek Airbrushes. Please do not use this method; the paint should never be forced to flow through the airbrush body. Over time paint may build up on the control mechanism and cause it to fail.  The only parts that need to be cleaned are the nozzles and the nozzle housing.

 

If the airbrush still doesn't work you can contact Customer Service for assistance or return the airbrush for evaluation. ( See instructions on returning airbrush).

 

15. Do you have fuel proof paint?

We do not have “Fuel Proof “ paint available.

You can purchase AeroGloss Dope from Midwest Products.

http://www.midwestproducts.com/store/products/d420fc6a-3968-47ae-b009-d8714bac3206/1/Aero-Gloss_Paint.aspx

16. Can you make the paint in larger containers?

All of our production lines are calibrated for 1/4 oz., 1/2 oz., 1 oz. bottles and 3 oz. spray cans.

17. What does the term "Scale" mean?

Scale is the term that is given to a model as a measurement against the prototype (the real subject).  The 1 in the equation represents the actual vehicle, aircraft, ship, or any other subject.  The 2nd number represents the model.  For example; a 1/48 scale model of a P-51 Mustang is only about one quarter the size of the real P-51 Mustang.  Another example is that it would take approximately 48 1/48 scale Mustang models lined up nose to tail to equal the length of the real P-51 Mustang.  The 1 in the equation always represents the real prototype, and the 2nd number represents the size compared to the prototype of the model.  The smaller the 2nd number is, the larger the model will be, likewise the higher the second number is, the smaller the model.  A 1/144 scale model of a popular airline aircraft will only have a wingspan of 10-14”, while a 1/72 scale model of the same type of aircraft may have a wingspan of almost two feet or more. 

The popular scales for aircraft, from smallest to largest are as follows:  1/44, 1/72, 1/48, and 1/32.  Car models come in scales such as: 1/43, 1/20, 1/24, and 1/25.  Most ship models are usually 1/720.  Military and historic figures usually come in 1/72, and 1/32.  Railroad models come in 1/220 (Z), 1/160 (N), 1/87 (HO), 1/64 (S), 1/48 (O), and 1/28-1/32 (G).

18. Can you bake the enamel or acrylic paint?

We do not recommend that the enamel paints be placed in any oven or kiln at any temperatures, due to performance and safety issues, ie; Enamels are considered Flammable/Volatile materials and do have a flash point.  We also do not recommend the baking of the Acrylics, which are certified non-toxic, however they were never designed with the idea of baking in mind and we cannot be held responsible for the outcome. 

19. What is Flash Point?

Flash point is the temperature at which the vapor of a thinner or solvent will ignite in the presence of sparks or an open flame. 

20. What is Wet-Edge Retention?

Wet-Edge Retention is the time after application during which fresh paint has sufficient flow and re-wet ability to permit lapping.

21. What is a filler?

A Filler is a paint, putty or paste that is applied to fill holes or other irregularities in a model prior to painting.

22. What is a primer?

Primers are undercoats, which bind topcoat to substrate.

23. What is a top coat?

A Top Coat is the final paint film applied to a surface, also known as a protective coating.

24. What is a sealer?

A sealer is a primer, which does not allow succeeding coats to penetrate. It also seals in material that might otherwise bleed through the surface.

25. What is varnish?

Varnish is an un-pigmented binder-solvent solution applied to protect or decorate a surface.

26. What is a solvent?

A solvent is the liquid of blend of liquids used to dissolve or disperse a paint.

27. What is a Retarder?

A Retarder is a solvent added to a paint to slow down its evaporation time.

28. What is dry spray?

Dry spray is sprayed paint, which loses so much solvent in the air that it becomes too dry to flow over the intended surface. Dry spray has a lower gloss than the normally sprayed surface.

29. What is a sprue?

A “sprue” is a sheet or “tree” that the parts of a model are attached to which helps identify them in the assembly instructions. Generally each sprue is assigned a letter and each part is assigned a number an example would be “A10”. The A identifies the sprue that it is on and 10 identifies the part number. Not all kits contain sprues. The majority of the metal kits that we sell do not have parts on sprues but rather the parts are loose and packaged in plastic bags.

30. What is Fish Eyes?

“Fish Eyes” is a paint defect, which manifests itself by crawling off wet paint into a recognized pattern resembling small “dimples” or “fish eyes”.

31. What causes paint to Orange Peel?

Orange peel is an irregularity in the surface of a paint film resulting from the inability of the wet film to “level out” after being applied.  Orange peel is caused by the rapid evaporation of the solvents either while the paint is drying or while it is being applied. It becomes more pronounced at higher temps and/or when lower humidity conditions exist. Orange peel can also happen if the aerosol paint can or airbrush is held too far away from the object being painted, when using too much thinner in an airbrush or allowing the model to dry in a spray booth with the exhaust fan on. It is usually only visible on gloss finishes. Once orange peel develops, it is necessary to remove the film and start over.

32. How can I order the Airbrush accessories that are not on your website?

The item you are looking for is probably a raw material and not a finished good.  Only the finished goods are on the webiste.  The raw materials are no longer available for purchase as of Jan 2014.

33. Do you have any cleaning tips for the airbrushes?

AZTEK AIRBRUSHES:  Airbrushes A320 A430  A470  A480,  Airbrush kits 270 A3205 A4305 A4308 A4709 A7778 A4702 A4809 9174

 DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE AIRBUSH TO CLEAN IT.  DO NOT DISASSEMBLE TO FIX ANY PROBLEMS.  TAKING THE AIRBRUSH APART WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.

 Cleaning Fluids:

All Aztek nozzles, paint cups and the front and sides of most airbrush bodies are resistant to all common solvents including: ACETONE, MEK, MEBK, TOLUENE LAQUER THINNER, ECT.

These solvents can be used to clean dried and wet paint without damaging the airbrush. Soaking the nozzles in containers of thinner or clear Windex ( no vinegar)is an effective way to clean them. The nozzles will not swell or grow. Though they may squeak when they are very clean.  Shaking the closed container a couple of times will help loosen the dried paint.  You can soak the nozzles and paint cups over night.

Do not soak the A270 airbrush nozzles, it will damage the "O" ring inside rendering the nozzles unusable.

If you choose to use other manufactures paint through an Aztek airbrush, we suggest you find a cleaner strong enough to dissolve the dried paint before you start. We cannot be held responsible for damages to the airbrush body, due to improper cleaning of the airbrush and components.  If using other paints you may need to contact the manufacturers of the paints to find a cleaning & thinning for their paints

 DO NOT IMMERSE THE AIRBRUSH BODY  IN ANY THINNERS OR CLEANERS.

Soaking the airbrush in solvents may damage some internal components.

Do not stick foreign objects into the front of your airbrush there are seals that need to be maintained.  Clean the front end of the airbrush with the cleaning tool wrench only.   Do not disassemble the needle from the nozzle. In most cases it will not reassemble and will not work.

CLEANING 

Set the airbrush to max spray and spray all old paint into a cleaning station or (on a scrap of paper.)  Set the airbrush to max spray. Use cleaners recommended for the paint that you were spraying.  Pour cleaners into airbrush using a bottle or color cup and spray into the airbrush cleaning station, until the spray is clear. 

Do not force solvent into airbrush. If there is low to no flow from the airbrush check the nozzle tip for dried paint. If there is, you can remove the nozzle and soak it or you can take a coarse paint bush dipped in solvent and try scrubbing the dried paint off the tip. When finished you can try to spray through solvent.  After spraying solvent, follow with water.  When clean, the airbrush is ready for storage or the next color.  If further cleaning is needed, soak only nozzle in solvent. 

DO NOT SOAK THE AIRBRUSH.

To clean color cups and bottles, disassemble into parts – cap, inner & base etc.  Soak in cleaner.  Rinse in water and re-assemble.

Quick cleaning with gravity feed cups.

Spray out old paint.  Add cleaner to cup.  Using a soft bristle, mix the solvent and remaining old paint in the cup. Spray out cup contents. Repeat until you feel the brush is clean.

 Nozzle Housing Cleaning

The cleaning tool will remove media deposits left in the airbrush body, which may restrict the flow of paint or air.  These deposits may not be removed with regular blow-through cleaning.  The cleaning tool is designed specifically for the airbrush body nozzle housing and cup ports.  It is not for use with the color cups or nozzles.  Insert reamer end into housing.  Push gently and rotate 360 degrees and remove.

Blow out any clumps of paint, which may have come free.

 Paint cup port cleaning

Remove blanking plug from port.  If tight, use the long bar of the cleaning tool to push it out.  Insert short bar, rotate and remove.  Clean reamer and repeat.

Always remember to replace your blanking plug after cleaning.

 Build up of paint on the needle

One of the most common problems is paint builds up on the needle or damage to the needle. This can cause air to blow back into the paint, stopping any spray.  Acryl paint dries far faster than enamel paints. This makes them far more likely to build up on the needle & tip.

When using an airbrush, paint will dry faster than normal because of the added airflow through the nozzle. This means that even if you stop for a few minutes, you may need to clean out the nozzle tip.  If you don't run cleaning or thinning through the airbrush, the paint may dry on the tip of your nozzle. This may result in the nozzle or body becoming clogged. Always try to clean your airbrush as soon as you finish spraying. Aztek makes nozzles that are designed to decrease the amount of paint accumulation on tip of the nozzle.  This will not totally prevent the paint from drying inside the nozzle. Always use an appropriate cleaner before the paint is fully dry.  Soap and water will not remove dried acrylic paint film.  Use solvent when soaking your nozzles.  If using oil-based enamel paint, use enamel thinners.

 

34. Can you ship International orders?

No,  we are not liscensed to ship individual orders or hazerdous items outside the United States.  You can contact our Distributor, International HobbyCraft Hobby-Exporter International Distributor - International HobbyCraft’s website at  www.hobby-exporter.com Click on the button at the top of the page labeled "SUPPLIERS REPRESENTED", to see a complete list of the manufacturers represented by INTERNATIONAL HOBBYCRAFT, together with a list of each of their International Distributors.  For addtional assistance you can contact Customer Service and they will be able to refer you to who can place your order.  Contact Andrea Valouskova  e-mail csr@hobby-exporter.com 

 

35. Can you ship my order to Canada?

We do not ship Canadian individual orders because of Canada's strict labeling requirements & additional fees to bring the order across the border. You can check in the yellow pages of your telephone book under Hobby, Craft, or Hardware Stores to locate a retail store in your area.  We are in the process of updating our contacts for Canada and will post it on the web site when completed. For futher assistance to locate a retailer in your area you can also contact our Sale Rep. Jack Ward @TOY-SPORT AGENCIES LTD at Jward@toy-sport.com

36. Is your paint lead- free?

All of Testors brand products, including Testor paints, cements and model kits comply with the product lead content limits of the standards and rules promulgated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and the EN 71 European standards. Testor products are formulated to be  “lead free”  for the safety of all our customers.

37. Do you still make Model Master Parafilm item 50641?

This item was discontinued in 2001.  Micro Mark has a similar product that you can find more information on at www.micromark.com or call 1-908-464-2985.

38. Do you still have Pactra Aerogloss, Formula-U or Prep products?

We no longer manufacture or distribute these products.  For assistance in locating the items, you can contact Midwest Products Inc. at 1-800-348-3497,  address - 400 S. Indian St., Hobart, IN 46342.

39. Directions on thinning paint

Thinners cleaners and solvents for Testor, Model Master, Pactra, and Floquil paints. 


Acrylics. 

Acrylic Thinner can be used when the paint is wet, (see below). When cleaning wet paint from an airbrush, use the acrylic cleaner listed below. If Acrylic paint dries on or in your airbrush use one of the cleaners to remove the dried paint. 

Acryl Thinners.

Modal Master Acryl 50496 4oz Detail & fine line thinner

Acryl wet Acryl Cleaners.

Model Master 50497 Acryl Cleaner 4 oz

Dried Paint Solvents.

Model Master 50495 Dried Paint Solvent 1-3/4 oz

Polly scale F542143 ELO paint Remover 8 oz

 Enamel

All enamel thinners are usable with other enamel paints. Model Master, Testor and Floquil are all interchangeable.  When cleaning wet paint from the airbrush use thinner. To remove the dried paint use enamel thinner or lacquer thinner.

 Enamel thinner and wet cleaners: -

Testor 8824 Airbrush thinner 8 oz

Testor 8825A Airbrush thinner 1-3/4 oz

Model Master 1156X Thinner 1-3/4 oz

Model Master 1789X Airbrush thinner 1-3/4 oz

Floquil F110001 Enamel Thinner/Brush Cleaner 1 oz

 Lacquer thinner.

There are three types of lacquer thinner in the Tester line of products Model Master Metalizer, Model Master Lacquer and Pactra RC.  The thinners for these products should not be intermixed.  If too much of the wrong thinner is added to the paint, the paint may separate and form non-sprayable goo.  When cleaning always use the formula made for that brand. Dry paint can be removed with any lacquer thinner.

Lacquer thinners & cleaners use

Model Master auto lacquer

Model Master 28016   Thinner ½ oz

Model Master lacquer

Model Master 2018 lacquer thinner 1oz

Metalizer

Metalizer 1419 Metalizer lacquer thinner 1-3/4 oz

Pactra RC

Pactra RC 75 Thinner 3 ½ oz

Pactra RC 95 Thinner 8 oz

AIRBRUSH THINNING RATIOS:

In general when spraying paints through Aztek airbrushes, the paint should be the consistency of whole milk or thinner.

Never add thinner to the paint jar.  If the paint is over thinned, the paint cannot be thickened.

Do not to over thin flat Enamels, as they can turn to a gloss if over thinned

Fine detail airbrushing requires practice and varies greatly with the equipment and air pressure being used.  Experiment on scrap material before you begin painting an actual project.

NOTE: the numbers listed below are only a guide and may vary from color to color.

 MODEL MASTER TESTOR ENAMEL PAINT:

 

Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner.

Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner,  

Air pressure setting should be around 20-25 PSI.  

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Enamel solvents

MODEL MASTER TESTOR ACRYLIC: 

Most Model Master and Testor "Acrylic" paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing. Thin paint by adding thinner drop by drop, until your consistency has been achieved. 

Air pressure should be approximately 18-20 PSI. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Acryl thinners

 Metalizer

Model Master Metalizer is pre-thinned for spraying and will not need thinning.

Air presser should be around 18-20 psi

Metalizer will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - 1419 Metalizer thinner

 Model Master Auto lacquer

Model Master Auto lacquer is not thinned to spray add 2 parts thinner to 3 parts paint increase drop by drop.

Air pressure setting should be approximately 20-25 PSI. Too much high-pressure air will cause cob webbing.

Auto Lacquers will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - 28016 Thinner only

 RACING FINISH PAINTS LEXAN BODIES LACQUERS

Mix 9 Parts paint to 1 part thinner. 

You may adjust this ratio to your own preference.

Dry time is 5-10 minutes between coats.  Full cure is 24 hours

If you achieve a "Cloudy" appearance on the clear Lexan, you may be using too much or too strong of a thinner for these paints. 

Thinner: - RC75 or RC95 Lacquer Thinner only

 RACING FINISH PAINTS LEXAN BODIES ACRYLIC 

Pactra RC Acrylic Lacquer paints are pre-thinned and airbrush ready. 

If desired, thin no more than 10% with thinner.

Air pressure should be around 18-20 psi. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

If you achieve a "Cloudy" appearance on the clear Lexan, you may be using too much or too strong of a thinner for these paints. 

Thinner: - 50496 Universal Acrylic Thinner only

Pactra R/C aircraft colors

Pactra R/C aircraft paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing.  Add thinner drop by drop until paint meets your desired consistency. 

Air pressure should be around 18-20 psi. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Acrylic thinners

 Floquil Polly Scale Acrylics,

Acrylics are pre-thinned for airbrushing and may be thinned further with water. 

Air pressure should be 16-18 psi.

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - all Acrylic thinners.

 Floquil ENAMELS: 

Flat colors: - mix 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner.  Do not over thin your flats, as they can turn to gloss.

Gloss colors: - mix 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. 

PSI should be 21-25 psi. 

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Enamel Thinners

 Testor Enamels:

Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner.

Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner.

Air pressure will need to be sprayed approximately 21-25 psi

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all enamel thinners 

 

40. Cancer warning on paint?

"Cancer warning" on the bottles of enamel paint are due to the presence of an extremely small percentage of a solvent called Toluene.  It is not put into the paint as a component during manufacturing, but may possibly be present in a very small amount in one of the raw materials that goes into the paint (i.e. much less than 1 %).

Since California has a statute ("Proposition 65") that requires this specific warning statement on any consumer product containing Toluene, it has been the advice of Testor's legal department (and many other paints manufactures), to include the warning statement, even though the amount present  (if at all) in the final paint is very, very small.

In addition, Toluene is a volatile solvent, and any amount present evaporates when the paint dries, and therefore would not be present in the dried paint.

 Testors Acryl water-based paints are less toxic than the enamels in its wet state.  In fact, it is independently certified as non-toxic as packaged.

 In addition, all of Testor's water-based and solvent-based paints are completely lead and heavy metals free, and have been for over 40 years. 

41. What do you use to clean up enamel paints?

When using Testor Enamels or Model Master Enamels we suggest Testor No. 1148 or No. 1156 Thinner/Brush Cleaner. See question no.39 on "Paint Thinning "for additonal information for paint clean up.

42. Do you ship orders over sea's?

We are not licensed to ship outside the US., we process our International orders through our Distributors.You can contact our International Distributor - International HobbyCraft’s website at  www.hobby-exporter.com.

Click on the button at the top of the page labeled "SUPPLIERS REPRESENTED", to see a complete list of the manufacturers represented by INTERNATIONAL HOBBYCRAFT, together with a list of each of their International Distributors.

43. Where to send warranty cards.

You can send your information on the warranty cards to customerservice@testors.com


44. Helpful web links

 

Cybermodeler Online

A470 Airbush on Youtube Double Action Mode

Domestic Diva


David Morton's Airbrushing Classes

www.cybermodeler.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9iocSTRe0I

www.domestic-divaonline.com/Site_1/7A-airbrushed-tee-shirts.html

www.airbrushclasses.com

Modeling

Airbrushing

Craft/Hobby Ideas

Airbrushing

Die-Cast Xchange. Diecast Collectors Message Forum www.diecastxchange.com Automotive
HPI Racing www.hpiracing.com Radio Control
HyperScale www.hyperscale.com Aircraft
International Plastic Modeling Association www.ipmsusa.org Miltary
National Model Railroad Association www.nmra.com Railroad
National Retailer Hobby Stores Association http://www.nrhsa.org Aircraft

Scale Work Shop www.scaleworkshop.com/index.html Aricraft

Specializing in 1/32 and 1/24 scale slot cars www.nomadslotracing.com Automotive



Trains www.trains.com Railroad

46. Does Testors have a Facebook page?

Yes!

You can find the Testor Facebook page here:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Testors/186766180261

You can find the Aztek Facebook page here:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Aztek/201147953255435

47. What does (G), (SG) and (F) stand for in your paints sections?

(G) = Gloss finish, (SG) = Semi-Gloss Finish and (F) = Flat Finish

48. Where do I purchase Testor products if I live in Canada?

We are not licensed to ship our products to consumers outside the US. We have Canadian Distributors that order form us and they ship to the retailers. Below is a list of Canadian Distributors.

The best method to locate retailers is to look under Hobby or Craft Shops in the yellow pages of the telephone book.

 

Michaels Craft Store

Kroger Stores

Home Hardware Stores

TruServ Hardware Stores

Toys R Us Canada

 

The following Canadian retail web sites ship to Canada:

Sunward Hobbies
2700 Dufferin Street, Unit 51
Toronto, ON
Canada M6B 4J3
416-241-4500

www.sunwardhobbies.ca

info@sunwardhobbies.ca

 

Internet Hobbies.

http://www.internethobbies.com

 

Hobbylinc

http://www.hobbylinc.com/

 

Hobby Wholesale

http://www.hobbywholesale.com/

 

HobbyGuys

#1 222-16 Avenue N.E.

Calgary, Alberta, T2E 1J8 CANADA

E-mail:  hobby.guys@shaw.ca

Web: http://www.first-search.com/hobbyguys.net.htm

Ph:  403-230-8821

Fax: 403-230-8882

 

Modeller's Choice

1400 Upper James St.

Units 5 & 6

Hamilton, Ontario L9B 1K3 CANADA

Toll Free pH: 866-212-3714

PH. 905-574-3322

Fax:  905-574-8912

E-mail:  sales@modellerschoice.com

Web:  www.modellerschoice.com

 

Action Hobbies

1625 Steeles Avenue E.

Bramton, Ontario L6T 4T7 CANADA

PH: 905-791-1882

Web: www.actionhobbies.ca

49. How do I place an order?

Orders can be placed on our website at www.testors.com with a credit card or with PayPal.  You can also place an order over the phone at  1-800-837-8677 until June 28, 2013, using a credit card for payment between 8:00 am and 4:00 pm Central Standard time.  We are not open on weekends or major holidays.  After June 28, 2013 orders will need to be placed at www.testors.com.

 

50. What thinner replaces Diosol for Floquil Paints?

Use F110001 Floquil Thinner/Brush Cleaner to thin Floquil paints. 

51. How to I submitt a Donation request?

We ask that your request be sent in on letterhead with your organization’s

logo and information at least one month in advance of the event.

Please include the following information:

1. Organization Name and address

2. Purpose for the request and date of event.

3. Number of people expected to attend or be involved in the event.

4. The average age of those attending or involved in the event.

5. The proper mailing address and contact name.

6. Preference of Testor’s products you would like.

(We will do our best to accommodate your product preference.)

SEND YOUR REQUEST TO:

Rust-Oleum Corp.
Attn: Steve Gillmann- HR Dept.
Testors Donation Request
11 Hawthorn Parkway
Vernon Hills, IL 60061