General Questions

  • 1.

    How do I achieve a transparent paint finish?

    Mix 50% Enamel and 50 % Gloss or Flat Clear.
  • 2.

    How should I apply a stain to highlight detail?

    Shake well before applying as stains settle. Apply stain with a fine brush around detail, seams, recessed and standing detail or apply evenly over entire surface. Stain will naturally concentrate in corners and pull up flat surfaces. Let dry for 15 minutes, remove excess with thinner using either a moistened cloth or fine brush. To blend, thin or remove, use 1148 Enamel Thinner. Leave 24 hours for full cure. Recoating before then may result in blending of colors. Seal with clear coat.

  • 3.

    How do I apply Metalizer Paints?


    Metalizer is a unique metalizing plate finish, especially formulated for all kinds of plastic models.  It is a high quality product manufactured with the finest materials available.

    The Metalizer line consists of a wide range of buffing and non-buffing colors which allow you to duplicate any natural metal finish.  No other product offers the capability and versatility of Metalizer.

    Metalizer is also easy to use.  All colors are pre-mixed for airbrushing. Simply apply to your clean, unpainted model according to the following directions, let dry for several minutes and then buff to a brilliant metal sheen with a clean, soft cloth.

    In order to achieve optimum results, carefully read the information found in the Special Hints & Suggestions below.

    Special Hints & Suggestions:

    Make sure the plastic part to be painted is dry and free of dust, lint, fingerprints, mold release compound and any other foreign matter.  Thin residual films of silicon, sometimes left on plastic parts as a result of the molding process, may be removed by cleaning with a small amount of rubbing alcohol or washing detergent and water. If a detergent and water wash is used, the part should be water rinsed and dried completely.

    Shake the bottle or spray can thoroughly prior to use. Stir bottles occasionally if one color is being used for a prolonged period. Recap tightly after use.

    Metalizer products are recommended for all major kinds of airbrushes, both internal and external mix.  Set airbrush at a “medium” setting and fine tune airbrush and pressure to a personal preference and individual technique.  If thinning is desired, use Metalizer Thinner No. 1419 only.  Model Master Airbrush Thinner is not recommended.

    When using buffing colors, spray light mist coats and allow to dry for about 10 minutes.  Buff with facial tissue, cotton balls, or a soft cloth to desired sheen.  For best results, begin by buffing very lightly at first, gradually increasing pressure as the finish begins to “buff up” to the desired metal-plate look.    


    Non-buffing Metalizer colors also are “ready to use” airbrushing lacquers.  However buffing is not required or recommended. The non-buffing colors represent a range of metallic shades and levels of sheen to allow for a variety of effects.

    Metalizer buffing colors are compatible with all other buffing colors, just as the non-buffing colors may be mixed with each other to produce desired shades.  “Cross-mixing” of buffing and non-buffing colors is not recommended.

    Due to the unique nature of Metalizer coatings, the use of standard-tack masking tape is not recommended.  Low-tack tape can be used successfully on non-buffing colors.  There is another way to mask.  To achieve a “dissimiliar” panel effect – as on aircraft models – cut newspaper into strips and soak in water.  Outline the area to be painted with wet strips.  Soak up all water droplets with a tissue, then lightly airbrush or spray paint the area.  Remove paper and soak up water drops.  Allow to dry then buff as usual.  note: when using the “wet masking” technique, best results are achieved by spraying dark colors first.  Then, after placing the masking strips, airbrush the lighter colors.

    Dry Metalizer finishes may be decaled as usual. Model Master Decal Set (No. 2146) is recommended as a compatible setting solution.

    Seal all buffing and non-buffing colors with Metalizer Sealer (No. 1409 bottle or 1459 spray).  Clean your airbrush with Metalizer Thinner (No. 1419). Note – The Metalizer Sealer will protect the painted surface against fingerprints or minor abrasions but a slight decrease in metallic brilliance is normal

    Metalizer can be over painted with most hobby paint.  As always, you should first test for overcoat compatibility before applying to the finished model.

  • 4.

    Can you bake the enamel or acrylic paint?

    We do not recommend that the enamel paints be placed in any oven or kiln at any temperatures, due to performance and safety issues. Enamels are considered Flammable/Volatile materials and do have a flash point.  

    We also do not recommend the baking of the Acrylics, which are certified non-toxic, however they were never designed with the idea of baking in mind and we cannot be held responsible for the outcome. 
  • 5.

    Do you have any cleaning tips for the airbrushes?

    AZTEK AIRBRUSHES:  Airbrushes A320   A470  A480,  Airbrush kits 270 A3205 A4305 A4308 A4709 A7778 A4702 A4809 9174


    Cleaning Fluids:

    All Aztek nozzles, paint cups and the front and sides of most airbrush bodies are resistant to all common solvents including: ACETONE, MEK, MEBK, TOLUENE LAQUER THINNER, ECT.

    These solvents can be used to clean dried and wet paint without damaging the airbrush. Soaking the nozzles in containers of thinner or clear Windex is an effective way to clean them. The nozzles will not swell or grow. Though they may squeak when they are very clean.  Shaking the closed container a couple of times will help loosen the dried paint.  You can soak the nozzles and paint cups over night.

    Do not soak the A270 airbrush nozzles, it will damage the "O" ring inside rendering the nozzles unusable.
    If you choose to use other manufactures paint through an Aztek airbrush, we suggest you find a cleaner strong enough to dissolve the dried paint before you start. We cannot be held responsible for damages to the airbrush body, due to improper cleaning of the airbrush and components.  If using other paints you may need to contact the manufacturers of the paints to find a cleaning & thinning for their paints


    Soaking the airbrush in solvents may damage some internal components.

    Do not stick foreign objects into the front of your airbrush there are seals that need to be maintained.  Clean the front end of the airbrush with the cleaning tool wrench only.   Do not disassemble the needle from the nozzle. In most cases it will not reassemble and will not work.


    Set the airbrush to max spray and spray all old paint into a cleaning station or (on a scrap of paper.)  Set the airbrush to max spray. Use cleaners recommended for the paint that you were spraying.  Pour cleaners into airbrush using a bottle or color cup and spray into the airbrush cleaning station, until the spray is clear. 

    Do not force solvent into airbrush. If there is low to no flow from the airbrush check the nozzle tip for dried paint. If there is, you can remove the nozzle and soak it or you can take a coarse paint bush dipped in solvent and try scrubbing the dried paint off the tip. When finished you can try to spray through solvent.  After spraying solvent, follow with water.  When clean, the airbrush is ready for storage or the next color.  If further cleaning is needed, soak only nozzle in solvent. 


    To clean color cups and bottles, disassemble into parts – cap, inner & base etc.  Soak in cleaner.  Rinse in water and re-assemble.

    Quick cleaning with gravity feed cups.

    Spray out old paint.  Add cleaner to cup.  Using a soft bristle, mix the solvent and remaining old paint in the cup. Spray out cup contents. Repeat until you feel the brush is clean.

    Nozzle Housing Cleaning
    The cleaning tool will remove media deposits left in the airbrush body, which may restrict the flow of paint or air.  These deposits may not be removed with regular blow-through cleaning.  The cleaning tool is designed specifically for the airbrush body nozzle housing and cup ports.  It is not for use with the color cups or nozzles.  Insert reamer end into housing.  Push gently and rotate 360 degrees and remove.

    Blow out any clumps of paint, which may have come free.

    Paint cup port cleaning
    Remove blanking plug from port.  If tight, use the long bar of the cleaning tool to push it out.  Insert short bar, rotate and remove. Clean reamer and repeat. Always remember to replace your blanking plug after cleaning.

    Build up of paint on the needle
    One of the most common problems is paint builds up on the needle or damage to the needle. This can cause air to blow back into the paint, stopping any spray. Acryl paint dries far faster than enamel paints. This makes them far more likely to build up on the needle & tip.

    When using an airbrush, paint will dry faster than normal because of the added airflow through the nozzle. This means that even if you stop for a few minutes, you may need to clean out the nozzle tip.  If you don't run cleaning or thinning through the airbrush, the paint may dry on the tip of your nozzle. This may result in the nozzle or body becoming clogged. Always try to clean your airbrush as soon as you finish spraying. Aztek makes nozzles that are designed to decrease the amount of paint accumulation on tip of the nozzle.  This will not totally prevent the paint from drying inside the nozzle. Always use an appropriate cleaner before the paint is fully dry.  Soap and water will not remove dried acrylic paint film.  Use solvent when soaking your nozzles.  If using oil-based enamel paint, use enamel thinners.